Vitamin E, or tocopherol, is a fat-soluble vitamin, and its synthetic form is found in many over-the-counter products. Working as an antioxidant, vitamin E protects cell membranes and is thought to play an important role in skin aging because of its antioxidant properties. While topical vitamin E is available in a variety of products, there is no data which support claims that it improves skin wrinkling, discoloration and texture.

"Topical vitamin E has been studied in humans, as in mice, more as a protectant to be used before sun exposure than as an agent to be included in cosmeceuticals to reduce the signs of skin aging," said Dr. Kim. "Through research we have learned that UV exposure significantly decreases levels of cutaneous vitamin E, and vitamin C should be included in any formulation containing vitamin E because of the important role it plays in maintaining active vitamin E levels."

Research also has explored combining vitamins E and C as an oral supplement to provide sun protection. Multiple studies suggest that this combination therapy is beneficial for photoprotection.  However, Dr. Kim noted that overzealous oral vitamin E supplements may be harmful, and two new studies also suggest that a high intake of vitamin E may be associated with an increased risk of basal cell carcinoma.

Vitamin B3: A possible treatment for photoaging

The B vitamins consist of eight different water-soluble vitamins that are found in a variety of foods. Vitamin B3 has been shown to reduce blood cholesterol and atherosclerosis (a condition in which fatty materials collect along artery walls), but now new insights are examining its role as an effective treatment for several skin conditions “ from acne to photoaging.

Specifically, Dr. Kim noted that vitamin B3 has been found to increase collagen production in in vitro studies and to reduce skin hyperpigmentation (dark spots) in clinical studies.

"There has been one clinical trial conducted in Caucasian women in which 50 women applied 5% niacinamide (topical vitamin B3) to one side of their faces twice per day for 12 weeks, and these women experienced significant reductions in the appearance of hyperpigmented spots, redness, wrinkles, and yellowing, as well as improved skin elasticity," said Dr. Kim. "While initial studies show promise that topical vitamin B3 may prevent UV-induced skin aging, larger clinical trials are needed to confirm its role as a definitive treatment of photoaging."

Bottom Line: Maintain healthy lifestyle, healthy diet, practice sun protection

Dr. Kim added that it is important for everyone to get an adequate daily supply of vitamins to maintain a healthy lifestyle, and any insufficiencies may negatively impact the skin's overall appearance.

"Research has shown a potential role for various vitamins in reducing the damaging effects of sun exposure on the skin. Whether topical or oral formulations containing these vitamins have a protective effect is uncertain. Given the number, type and variability of preparations available, consumers should understand from our study that skin care products with vitamins may not provide clinically meaningful improvement," said Dr. Kim. "What is known is that proper sun protection is key to the prevention of photoaging and should be top of mind at all times."

SOURCE American Academy of Dermatology